Injury Prevention and Management Practices Amongst Indoor Sports Climbers

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Author
Warner, Joni
Date
2014Type
Thesis
Publisher
Cardiff Metropolitan University
Metadata
Show full item recordAbstract
The aim of this study was to help establish whether further ‘injury’ familiarization was needed
amongst the climbing population and the ‘medical’ profession, and whether this familiarization
was primarily general awareness, treatment, or prevention that needed to be advanced
through education.
One hundred and twelve questionnaires were distributed between November 2013 and
January 2014. Forty-nine questionnaires were emailed to climbers, and 63 were handed
directly to climbers at three different indoor climbing/bouldering walls in Bristol and Cardiff.
The criteria for selecting participants were that climbers had to be aged 18 years or over, and
also have at least two years of climbing experience. The key component of the questionnaire
then sought information from the participants on types of injuries along with treatment and
preventative strategies commonly used. A total of 67 questionnaires were completed.
Sixty percent of all participants had sustained an injury in the last two years. The total number
of distinct injuries recorded was 91. Overuse injuries accounted for 59% of all injuries,
whereas traumatic injuries accounted for 41%. Fingers, elbows and shoulders were the most
common injury sites. The most prevalent distinct injury was the A2 pulley, occurring in 15% of
all diagnosed injuries. Most participants reported receiving informal advice regarding
treatments (21%) and preventative strategies (32%) from fellow climbers. The most common
advice regarding treatment was rest (24%). Warm ups (24%) was reported as the most
effective preventative measure in this study. Elite climbers with climbing experience of over
ten years who climb more than twice a week, are at higher risk of injury.
With the repetitive nature of the average age that a climber suffered from injuries such as A2
pulley injury has decreased by 20 years in the past decade. Effective treatments and
preventative advice for injuries has come from medical professionals, demonstrating that the
attitude of climbers needs to change. Giving climbers and medical professionals a chance to
gain a greater understand of climbing injuries will help them work together to reduce rates and
develop interventions that work most effectively. Although some symposiums have been
running since 2010, they need to become more regular and at different venues around the
country. Future research into effectiveness of new treatment and preventative interventions
as well as investigating the psychological mind of a rock climber is warranted.
Description
DEGREE OF BACHELOR OF SCIENCE (HONOURS)
SPORT CONDITIONING, REHABILITATION AND
MASSAGE
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